Kuranda Palms Open Garden

at 30th & Sun 31st May 2009
10am-4.30pm
Entry $5 - Under 18 free
Garden suitable for wheelchairs
Kuranda
Palms
Lot 10 Saddle Mountain Rd
KURANDA
DIRECTIONS: From Cairns take Kennedy Hwy to Kuranda; just before Barron River
turn right into Saddle Mountain Rd.
Former palm nursery has become tranquil rainforest glen.
Fine specimens of rare mature palms including Attalea amygdalina and
Caryota gigas. Ornamental and fruit trees: carambola, jackfruit, longan,
black sapote. Unusual cycads. Colourful tropical underplantings and
climbers. Land for wildlife with resident cassowary.
Refreshments - Plant Sales – Picnic spots
Garden owners’ proceeds supporting Kuranda Garden Club
Since 1987, garden owners opening with Australia’s Open Garden Scheme have contributed
over $4 million to charities of their choice. For more information on gardening openings
anywhere in Australia contact the Queensland Coordinator, qld@opengarden.org.au

The Tropical Garden Fair Cairns

The Tropical Garden Fair

Once again the annual Tropical Garden Fair will be held at Cannon Park racecourse on Mothers Day May 10th from 8.30am to 4.30pm. The spacious grounds and gardens at the Turf Club make it an ideal venue for such an event. There will be an animal petting zoo for the kids and plenty of food and entertainment for the parents.
A great range of plant and garden related stalls will include plants such as succulents and cacti, orchids, carnivorous plants, palms, tassles, indoor and outdoor shrubs, bamboo, broms, natives, seedlings, heliconias and gingers etc. There will also be experts on hand to advise on the care and maintenance of each and guest speakers on various subjects.
Bring along, in a plastic bag, any plant or pest material you need help with for the Plant Doctor Roger Goebels advice, or a soil sample from your garden for a ph test. The Aquatic Life Enthusiasts club will have a display of native fish and aquatic plants with plenty of advice on using these and setting up a native pond in your own garden
There will be plenty of food and the Complete Garden Cafe will be open so bring mum along for lunch. The bar will be open with live music. The fun-e-farm petting zoo and pony rides will be available for the kids.
Graeme Byrne will once again be umpiring the garden clubs of NQ as they fight it out in the hotly contested Golden Gumboot Toss on the track at 2pm.
Entry Fee is $7.00 for adults and $4.00 for aged pensioners. Children under 13 free. The Nuleaf lucky gate prize is valued at $2,000.
For any information phone Robyn Ganley on 40 675 214

I'll be doing a talk on Foliage in the Tropical Garden.

Happy Gardening!! Ann

An Introduction to Basic Soil Chemistry for the Home Gardener

If you are like me you would rather be out in the garden or having bamboo strips inserted under your fingernails than trying to remember your high school chemistry. Phrases like “cation exchange capacity”, “cations and anions” and “bric” give you an instant headache and leave you running for aspirin, a good glass of red and if you’re lucky a pack of TimTams. So for me to put you (and me!) through reading (and writing!) this article you know I must think that understanding basic soil chemistry is very important to your garden. Too many people think that throwing a slow release fert at their plants twice a year is all they need to do to maximize growth and flowering. And some even think if twice a year is good 4 times a year even better, Right?
Wrong, Wrong, Wrong.
Yes, NPK are important but they aren’t the only nutrients your plants will need and they need to be used wisely. For any of you that don’t know or may have forgotten:
N: Nitrogen important for the formation of chlorophyll and very important for growth.
P: Phosphorus important for healthy roots and shoots. Yellowing of the leaves is a common sign of P deficiency.
K : Potassium Vital to photosynthesis and protein synthesis and improves water use efficiency ( in English, makes plants more drought tolerant) Regulates about 50 enzymes and heliconias love it. Also seems to contribute to better coloring up of cordylines.

If you are over fertilizing you are throwing your money away as plants only pick up what they need and what is “available” to them. Most likely you would be better off spending your money on a simple soil test kit.
At minimum you should know the PH of different areas of your garden. The PH is very important and affects the plants ability to use available nutrients. PH is a measure of hydrogen ions and is the result of total cations in the soil. I’m only telling you this because CEC or Cation Exchange Capacity is a measure of your soil to store nutrients. Clay soils have lots of stored nutrients but they are not always “available” to your plants. . In heavy clay soil you can add calcium (usually in the form of lime) to lower PH which allows for better nutrient exchange. Sandy soils need fertilizing more often (a little, a lot) because they can’t store nutrients well.
Aside from PH it is important to know the level of minerals in your soil and ideally work towards correcting any imbalance. That is because an excess of one element can cause a deficiency in another by inhibiting the plants ability to utilize it.
The most common problems occur when people add too much nitrogen to the soil. This can lead to burning through humus, potassium deficiency and sappy growth with thin cell walls that are more attractive to sap sucking insects. DPI studies on bananas in North Qld have indicated excess nitrogen in the Wet can feed Phytophthora. Also remember that at different parts in a plants growth cycle plants will take up extra nutrients. There’s no point on putting extra potash on a plant when it’s just starting growing it. It would be much more effective to use before flowering occurs to encourage big healthy flowers. Remember Sulphate of Potash is a much better form of potash as Muriate of Potash is %0% chloride (Salt) and can kill your soil. Wood Ash and Kelp are also good sources of K.

I could go on and on dazzling you with soil chemistry information that I’ll plagiarized from the internet but I think it’s time to wrap this up succinctly and say if you are serious about your garden buy a simple soil test from your local hardware store or even better splash out and get a qualified agronomist or horticulturist to do a soil analysis for you. In the long run it could save you heaps of money and improve your overall soil health.
If this is all too scientific for you the bottom line is that by adding as much mulch as humately (get it, humately) will improve your soil structure and increase nutrient uptake. And when in doubt kelp and fish emulsion are excellent for giving your soil and plants heaps of yummy micronutrients.

If for some reason you are still awake at the end of this article and would like to find out more about soil chemistry I recommend the book Soils Alive published by Lawrie and 61 sustainable agriculture S.A. It goes into great detail about mineral management in your soil but is accessible to the layman.
And if you decide to ignore everything I’ve just written and throw slow release at your plants twice a year at least water it in! And choose a blend with lots of micronutrients. Mulch! Mulch! Mulch!
Now if you’ll excuse me there’s a TimTam waiting for me.
Happy Gardening

Foliage in the Tropical Garden

The most important element in any tropical garden is foliage. I could easily create a gorgeous tropical garden without flowers, without hard landscaping or without garden art but could never create a great tropical garden without lots of lush, sensuous foliage. A good tropical garden is like a symphony with each of the plants acting as notes. The sum greater than each individual piece. Each complimenting or contrasting other plants. That’s why I’m always surprised that people so often buy plants on impulse often disregarding how they relate to the overall structure of the garden.

As much as I love heliconias I know a garden of only heliconias can be boring. Overwhelmingly green, they need contrast in texture, foliage and color to look their best. Our own gardens are heliconia and ginger centered. The plants we use and sell are plants that we find compliment heliconias best and help to create a lush, well rounded tropical garden with lots of color. In this article we’ll be featuring some of the stars of tropical foliage.

Calathea Lutea or Havana Cigar as it is commonly called is an excellent feature plant with its huge oblong waxy leaves and unusual candelabra flowers. It is also useful for creating a microclimate for other more tender tropicals. It’s also striking in large pots around pools or patios and the leaves can be used to line large platters when entertaining. In fact, in the Amazon the leaves are used to wrap food and cook in. We’ve used it close to the beach and in windy conditions and are impressed with how well it handles harsh condition. Golden Cigar has larger more golden flowers and can be used in a similar fashion.

Pleiostachya Pruinosa or “Wheat” is a calathea relative that is also highly desirable for creating drama in the tropical garden. The reverse of the leaves and stems are a deep purple color. The unusual feathery flower bracts and tiny bright purple flowers also add interest in the garden. I love waxy stems and foliage contrasted with purple leaves. Other plants we use in this particular color scheme are H.Pendula “Red Waxy”, H. “Hot Rio Nites”, Costus “Green Mountain”,H. Velligeria “She Kong”, H. Longa, and Etlingera pyramidosphaera “Black Tulip” . These plants can be mixed, stacked or mini mass planted for high impact. I find that variegated mondo or moss basket as a ground cover really make these plants jump out.

Elephant Ears can also make great accent plants in a tropical garden. Alocasia macrorrhizos is an Australian native that can get to 3 meters in the right conditions. It’s huge deep green leaves scream tropical. Xanthosoma Violaceum is another excellent choice if you are looking for drama. It can get to six feet with large blue green leaves and chunky purple stems. In Nepal and the Himalayas (it’s cold hardy!)it is grown as a food source but I prefer it as an ornamental Xanthosoma Lime Zinger with it’s giant chartreuse leaves and stems brightens up any spot and makes a great feature plant. It looks particularly good when contrasted with dark foliage plants like cordylines. Some of the smaller taros like Illustris are perfect for instant color and can be pulled out as your beds fill or planted in and around ponds.

In gingers I recommend using things like Alpinia Formosana with it’s sexy yet subtle pin striped leaves. If you’re looking for a bit more glitz Alpinia zerumbet variegata is a good choice. All of the tulip gingers have purple backed leaves in the juvenile stage but only the orange tulip and black tulip hold it permanently.

In previous articles we discussed cordylines and costus. Strong in color and texture both are must haves in the tropical garden. There’s also a host of other plants that compliment the tropical garden including broms, pandanus and of course, palms. If you are trying to create a tropical garden or revamping I suggest a little research. Bill Bensley is the king of Baroque Tropical. A lot of the ideas you’ll find in his books are surprisingly easy to incorporate into a backyard garden. If you can afford to splash out and buy Paradise by Design. If not you can check out some of the links below for ideas and information on tropical garden design. I’ve included links to places like The Tropical Plant Society of Sydney for people in more marginal climates. If you know of any other good links please email them to me and I’ll add them.

Article by Fred Moody on Tropical Garden Design for Sydney

http://au.geocities.com/sydneytropical/designing_a_new_tropical_garden.htm

Tropical Garden Society of Sydney

http://au.geocities.com/sydneytropical/tropical_garden_society_of_sydney.htm

SE Qld Tropical garden design

http://www.plant.id.au/home/guide_view.aspx?id=76

Gardening Australia article on Tropical Garden Design

http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s2014639.htm

Website of a Florida Garden Design Guru with photos and ideas

http://www.thegreenman.us/mambo/

Our Links Page!!! Filled with great plant societies and forums where experts will happily help (especially Tropicshere).

http://www.nqheliconias.com/Links.aspx

Frequently Asked Questions and Answers

Frequently Asked Questions and Answers

In the Terms and Conditions link there is information on shipping and minimum

Order size. We decided to expand on that a bit here and also answer some commonly asked questions.

What happens after I place my order?

When we receive your order we determine the weight we think it'll be. Freight charges are based on weight. We then add those freight or postage charges and GST to the order and send you back an invoice with instructions. Once we have confirmation of payment we process the order.

Do you ship to WA?

No, due to quarantine restrictions we don’t ship overseas or to WA.

How do you ship?

Generally we ship via Greyhound freight. Heliconia rhizomes can be quite heavy and we find bus freight the cheapest, fastest and most reliable way of transporting our plants. The plants are shipped to the Greyhound Freight depot indicated by you on the ordering form. If you are not sure if where that is please call Greyhound on 1300656532 for help.

If you are between Townsville and Cairns we’ll more than likely use Fastway Courier.

Occasionally we can send small, light orders via Australia Post, but we prefer not to.

Do you have an order minimum?

We prefer to do orders of $100 or more. We can do small cordyline and brugmansia orders but heliconias and torch gingers are more difficult.

What size plant am I purchasing?

The plants in the photos are of mature plants. In most cases you’ll be purchasing a rhizome, pup or young plant that has been barerooted. The shopping cart indicates what size/type plants are available to purchase.

What should we do once we receive our plant?

We recommend potting your plant up in a well drained potting mix, adding a small dose of organic fertilizer and putting them in strong indirect light until roots establish in the pot. Once they have established you can plant them in your garden in a good sized hole with a bit of compost or organic fertilizer. Mulching is also recommended. potting heliconias link.

growing brugmansia link

growing cordylines link

Where will these plants grow?

Most of the plants we sell are from Tropical and Subtropical climates. Some will grow outside of the subtropics but will need more care. We have indicated a minimum temperature that the plant will be able to survive at a few nights a year but zone maps can also be helpful in deciding if the plants you have chosen will do well for you. Generally, in marginal areas ability to grow will depend on appropriate species selection and creating a suitable microclimate. Heliconias for Brisbane and Well Drained Rich Soil: What Does It Mean? Are two articles on our blog that you may find useful.

I’ve heard North Queensland heliconias don’t grow in S.E. Queensland. Is that true?

Absolutely not. When you buy a heliconia rhizome/plant you are not only buying the genetic material but also the stored energy that will send up new healthy shoots quickly. Our stock is famous for its health and vigor. In addition, while most S.E. Queensland grower’s stock is still dormant, ours is already actively growing. This means you can get your rhizomes in early before it gets too hot and while there is still a full growing season ahead before winter. In the early days a few disreputable growers flogged inferior, nonvigorous stock off to our southern neighbors and the myth was born.

When is the best time to put plants in?

It can vary from region to region, garden to garden but as a general rule early spring.
What sort of fertilizer should I use?
Heliconias and gingers are heavy feeders so any slow release fertilizer in spring, mid summer and autumn is fine. We also give them foliar sprays of kelp and fish emulsion in winter and in stressful conditions. There are a number of articles on the blog designed to help you get the most out of your garden please read them.

We'd like to see your plants. Can we come visit?
You are welcome to pick orders up but we do not have a retail garden center or display gardens.We do not have full range of stock in pots. Our stock is dug out and prepared for shipping which makes on the spot ordering impossible.
The best place in all of Australia to see heliconias is Flecker Botanical Gardens in Cairns. They don't hack into their clumps, send their flowers to market or constantly break them up for stock as we do. The Flecker Botanical Gardens in Cairns is well worth a trip.

Heliconias For Brisbane

I've just added a section on our website called "Heliconias for Brisbane" It is specifically meant for Brisbane growers that are either new to growing heliconias or have less than perfect conditions for heliconias. In a previous article we discussed conditions that heliconias like, in this article I'd like to expand on that a bit for Brisbane gardeners.

Most people are aware that the majority of heliconias are from Central and South America. However, the range of climates they come from can greatly vary. Some like the Caribaeas are from mountainous areas with great drainage and cool nights.These varieties grow well in Northern NSW but find summer heat in Brisbane hard to handle. Others like Sexy Pink are from the Amazon Basin, with constant high humidity and little temperature variation between summer and winter. These varieties may love the humidity but won't tolerate Brisbane's Westerly Winds or sharp temperature drops in winter.
At best Brisbane represents the extremes of the heliconia world. It can be tough on the cooler climate heliconias in summer (too hot) and tough in the warm climate heliconias in winter (too cold) and strong Westerlies can sometimes seal the coffin so to speak.


So how does someone in Brisbane know which heliconias will grow SUCCESSFULLY ?Lush, thriving plants producing lots of flowers, not sulking sadly making your garden look like crap.
The first step is a realistic assessment of your garden. If you can create a protected microclimate it'll help with Westerlies, if your soil is poor or filled with builder's rubble you can bring in quality top soil or add copious amounts of organic matter to correct it. Heavy layers of mulch and a drip irrigation system are the most waterwise way of delivering moisture to your plants. You may not be able to "fix" every problem you have, but a good microclimate will increase the number of varieties you can grow successfully. Lets face it! No heliconia's natural habitat is a small bed filled with builder's rubble on a hot concrete path on the way to the BBQ. But lots of heliconias will grow well in Brisbane even in less than perfect conditions.

If you are looking for smaller heliconias Tropifleur and Guadalope are two gorgeous psitt crosses that do well in Brisbane. Tropifleur is particularly renowned in the heliconia world for it's ability to deal with strong wind. Guadalope has a slightly runny habit but the striking flowers make it well worth growing.
If you are looking for gorgeous pendulous heliconias suitable for Brisbane look no further than H.pendula "Waxy Red" and Rostrata (needs a bit of shade for foliage to look it's best). Rauliniana is another semi pendulous variety that does well in Brisbane.
Any of the Caribaea crosses will do well in Brisbane as does Hot Rio Nites. In addition Yellow Dancer, Papsiana, Maya Blood, Chocolate Dancer, Lingulata Fan, Claw 1&2 are all easy growers in Brisbane.
The Orthotricas will grow in most areas in Brisbane and are certainly well worth growing; but maybe tough to grow in some areas. Given optimal conditions there are many other heliconias that will grow in Brisbane. But I suggest you get your feet wet these varieties if you haven't grown heliconias before.
All these plants are available in the Heliconias For Brisbane section of our online plant store.
If you have any information about growing heliconias in Brisbane please leave a comment. The more information we share the better!
Happy Gardening!!! Ann

Tapeinochilos for Ultra Tropical Gardeners

Tapeinochilos are rhizomatous herbs from New Guinea, Indonesia, Australia and the Solomon Islands. The flowers can be either borne basally or terminally depending on the species. The stems are bamboo like varying from banded brown and white as with T.xdensum to vivid red as with T. moluccan. The day flowers peak out of hard coned bracts that vary in color from black to red to yellow.
T. ananassae is the most commonly cultivated of the tapeinochilos. More specifically, the variety from Moluccas which has bright red bracts wrapped around the stems. This red coloring distinguishes it from the varieties native to New guinea and Australia. It has been in cultivation for over 100 years and like most tapeinchilos makes an excellent cut flower.
Other taps are relatively new to the horticultural scene. For my money T.xdensum is an excellent tap to try. It is one of the quickest to flower and in addition to it's deep amber flowers has extremely attractive stems. T. moluccan is also very quick to flower and easily flowers
in pots. The vivid red stems are striking and the flowering prolific making it a must have tap.
One of the most unusual tap is T. dahlii with it's blood black flower and black and white stems. It's a little slower to flower but well worth the wait if you're looking for a truly rare and unusual flowering plant. It also has a particularly long lasting flower with one lasting at the Flecker Botanical Gardens in Cairns lasting for more than a year.
Tapeinochilos are extremely tropical and water loving creatures. They look best when either massed or made a feature of. We have a small dedicated area underplanted with variegated mondo grass that shows the stems and flowers off to their best.
We'll be adding more varieties to our online plant store as they become available.

Happy Gardening!! Ann

Well Drained, Rich Soil: What Does It Mean???

The majority of plants we sell do best in well drained rich soil. Although many experienced tropical gardeners are aware of this there are a few that are unsure as to what it means. This article is intended to enlighten our customers on how to get the best results with our plants.
As a general rule most heliconias and gingers originate from tropical rainforests. These rainforest soils are generally teaming with life and rich in organic matter and nutrients in the form of leaf mulch and decaying vegetation. Heliconias and gingers are quite literally built for top feeding with their shallow root systems from these rich soils. Although they can be grown in a range of conditions,the closer you can come to duplicating these soil conditions the better your results will be. There are a few things that can impact negatively on growth and flowering. Lack of water and humidity is one of them. Poor drainage is another.Torch gingers and a few heliconias like Standleyii will thrive in poor drainage but for the most part good drainage is a necessity.
Practically speaking, if you have sandy soil you'll find that by adding organic matter, watering regularly, mulching and fertilizing a few times a year(spring and summer) that your plants will do best. In heavy clay soils you'll need to add gypsum and lime to break up your clay (which increases drainage) and raise your PH (which will help make nutrients more available to your plants)
When in doubt MULCH!!! You can never underestimate the value of good preparation when creating your tropical garden. Like the saying goes, there's no point in putting a twenty dollar plant in a twenty cent hole.
Happy Gardening!
Ann

Willing Workers on Organic Farms

Wwoof is a world wide network that allows volunteers to live and learn on organic properties. Wwoof brings together Hosts and volunteers ("woofers") helping each other to make a healthier world. Wwoof also promotes cultural understanding of the many diverse peoples and cultures around the world through the intercultural exchange that takes place while sharing in the daily life of others.

We enjoy being Wwoof hosts and have hosted many Wwoofers from all over the world. Our children love meeting and interacting with people from different countries and it's been a great way for us to get part time help on our farm.

If you are a Wwoofer and would like to visit us we strongly suggest that you email or call in advance, especially in the winter months. We are primary producers and can sign off on Visa extensions but please let us know that you will be using your stay towards a Visa extension so that we can make sure the projects we undertake while you are here satisfy the criteria for the Visa extension. We are two hours south of Cairns and can be reached by bus.

Generally Wwoofers can expect to work 5 hours a day. Tasks can include things like potting up plants, weeding and mulching. While we don't expect you to bust a gut we do expect you to treat the work seriously. It's a drag having people only interested in a free ride and we've been hosts long enough to say this isn't working out to loafers.

On the upside you can expect excellent home cooked meals with lots of fish, internet access, laundry facilities, satellite TV, possibly a boat trip to the reef or crabbing and amazing creeks and rainforest. Wwoofing with us may just change your life!!

We've had lots of very cool Wwoofers here but I have to say a special hello to our last pair of Wwoofers Hee and Bernard. You guys are great Wwoofers. You both always gave everything your full attention, always treated us with respect and always were so warm and funny. We loved the way you treated our kids and when you left you were genuinely missed. We hope your travels are treating you well and that your lives are full of love and happiness. Cheers!! Ann
ps The Wet Tropics are an amazing place don't miss them on your trip!
Mission Beach is 15 minutes from here and a must see destination!

Cordylines

Cordylines are a genus with about 15 different species of trees and clumping shrubs, they are native to India, South East Asia, Australia, the Pacific Islands and New Zealand. And are particularly important in Polynesian culture where they were used ceremonially and to wrap food.

Cordylines are usually referred to as Juno, intermediate or Kahli leafed. Juno is the wider broad type, Kahli the long narrow type and intermediate as the name suggests, is anywhere in between.

For me cordylines are addictive. I get drunk thinking about the vast numbers of cultivars being produced. I find cordylines so appealing for a number of reasons. Cordylines are tough, low maintenance, easy to grow and well behaved. they take up very little room and work perfectly in small gardens or along narrow paths. They also look great when used to underplant palms or mixed in with heliconias and gingers and they give instant year round color.
There are so many varieties available that often it comes down to personal taste. However, there are some undisputed kings of landscaping.
In tough full sun situations Margaret Storey, Rubra, Red Sister, Rooster Tail and Compacta are always dependable. Here in the Wet Tropics we can get away with a much wider range in full sun. My all time favorite is Peter Buck. It's slightly droopy juno leaves turn an almost metallic pink flected with orange. It is absolutely stunning! I prefer Pink tips to Red Sister as a hot pink variety as the coloring is richer and doesn't hit you over the head. If you have a more protected position Candy Stripe is another striking hot pink variety. I love to use Hawaiian Flag and Midnight Oil as a foil for my hot colored cords. You can't beat the rich black color Midnight Oil in full sun situations up here. Maize is another tough as nail variety that is also dependable in full sun. There really are so many others. For more in depth information take a look at the individual descriptions under the cordyline section of our website.
In partial shade situations there are a plethora of cordylines available ranging in color from orange, to pink, to purple. Hawaiian Rose is an oldie but still a goodie. I'd also recommend Pretty in Pink, Cyclamen/Patterson's Pride, and Stacey.
If you've got a small garden or a narrow area to landscape don't forget the minis! Kaui Rose, Maui Silver, Green Jade and Malia are just a few of the newer varieties that make excellent landscaping specimens. Minis look best when every third one is cut back regularly to keep them bushy.
Cordylines can also be used as pot plants, their flexibility is amazing!

Happy Gardening!
Ann

Costus in Tropical Gardens

Costus are a tropical and subtropical plant with spectacular flower spikes. They are related to gingers and were originally part of the ginger family, but now the Costus species have been reclassified into their own family. It's hard to make generalizations about costus because they are so varied. Some love full sun, some shade, some are cold hardy some are strictly tropical.

One generalization I can make about costus is that they are fabulous landscaping plants.

Costus are quick growing and quick to flower and they are much more forgiving of poor soil than heliconias. Costus flowers can often last for up to 9 months on a plant. They are also extremely well behaved and easy to remove. This can be useful if you want quick fill in a garden that can be easily removed as other plants will out and mature. Many costus like Maroon Chalice, Buddha Belly, Stenophyllus, Asplundii and Kiss of Death have exceptionally interesting stems. While some like Barbatus flower from the stem tips and also basally.

My Top Costus for Landscaping
Generally my taste in costus runs towards weird bizarre stems but my number one pick is more of a pretty costus. Costus barbatus is a cold tolerant costus that has lovely hard red bracts and small edible yellow day flowers. The deep green leaves have a soft velvety underleaf. Barbatus is tough as nails and will flourish even in poor soil. For me it's the James Brown of costus, definitely the hardest working costus out there. I recommend Costus barbatus for novice gardeners, cool climate gardeners,lazy gardeners, people looking for a quick growing garden, landscape architects and landscapers. If you can't get Costus barbatus to grow you are hopeless cause this is one reliable plant!!!
Costus spicatus is also a truly reliable attractive landscaping plant. My favorite cv is French Kiss. It is primarily used as a cut flower costus but has the same growth traits as the more commonly grown variety. It has small waxy flowers, with small waxy leaves and a very upright habit. French Kiss has deep true red flowers that jump out of the landscape. Another reliable costus I recommend it for novice, cool climate, lazy, quick fix gardeners and landscaping professionals.
Costus asplundii is a tall growing costus that prefers tropical and subtropical climates. It has deep purple hairy stems. The leaves are a deep grey green with new growth having a purple flush on the underside. The crepe flowers are an attractive soft pink but it's really the foliage that is a show stopper. It's such a beautiful plant we use it everywhere. If you are looking to get colorful, interesting plants in your garden this is a costus for you. It is easy to grow but as stated earlier prefers warm conditions.
Kiss of Death is another unique tropical costus. It represents the best of both worlds. The big oblong waxy leaves are held on hairy olive green stems that get to over 2 meters. It flowers basally, the hard bracts are a deep maroon color and the delicate day flowers resemble tiny pink orchids. Kiss of Death screams of the deep jungle. Still relatively rare in cultivation but not difficult to grow. I recommend this to collectors, people looking for the unusual and landscaping professionals.If you would like to share any information on landscaping with costus please leave a comment.
If you would like to see more costus please visit our online store where these and many other costus can be purchased. Cheers!! Ann

Torch Gingers

Torch and Tulip Gingers

Torch gingers are well known plants in tropical Australia. The colorful inflorescences closely resemble waratahs and they are sometimes called tropical waratah. They are members of the Etlingera family. The majority of the more ornamental varieties come from Malaysia. There they are also used medicinally and in cooking.

Red and pink are the most common torches planted in Australia. However, there are many other interesting varieties that are gaining popularity with gardeners as they realize how easy they are to grow. Many torches and tulips are crossing the boundary between collector’s plants and the home garden. There are also a number of breeders working on producing better cut flower torches, notably the D.P.I. in the Northern Territory.

We’d like to introduce you to a few of the ones that we like the best, especially those we find useful in Tropical Landscaping.

Our Favorites

Our absolute favorite isn’t actually torch; it’s a tulip type torch. Cerise tulip has got to be numero uno. It’s a larger sized plant that in the right conditions is similar in size to a red or pink torch ginger. It’s a quick grower, but not unruly and will even flower in a pot. What really appeals to me is the new growth. The undersides of the new leaves are a lovely soft purple; they turn green as they reach maturity. Colorful foliage is the backbone of tropical gardening and this one gets a 9/10 for foliage. The hot, hot pink flowers that resemble a tulip also get high marks from me. They are prolific, make an excellent cut flower and are the earliest season torch flowers to come out.

Number two is surprisingly also a tulip. The Black Tulip is a slightly smaller plant than the traditional red. If you are on a smaller block but want a tropical appeal this is a must have ginger. The undersides of the leaves are a dark maroon that is retained even when the leaves are mature. The unusual inflorescences are a deep chocolate color dotted with neon yellow. I’ve mini mass planted them in a bed with cordylines and heliconia velligeria cv shekong and they look fantastic. Black Tulip is massively underused as a landscaping plant.

Number three is Sugar Plum, formally known as hybrid torch. We’ve finally decided to give it a sexier name. This torch ginger is just a good all rounder. It’s a stronger grower with lovely, slightly undulating leaves. The flowers change from a mid range pink on the outer petals to a light pink towards the center, giving it a pearly two-tone effect.

Number four is commonly known as both Thai White and Porcelain Pink. It’s the number one cut flower torch in Oz. It’s also perfect for Hawaiian style gardens bursting with Alpinias and brugmansias, a sort of gentile “pretty” tropical style.

And number five… well I haven’t decided yet. I’ve got at least ten new varieties in my garden, including the N.T. D.P.I. cut flower varieties that I’m growing out at the moment. One of those looks promising but only time will tell.

Don’t forget torches go best in a lush landscape setting with lots of heliconias, costus and cordylines. They can be used as a quick shade plant until palms or trees grow and they look fabulous planted out on either side of a path (not too close!) to give an archway effect.

Our online store stocks a large variety of torch gingers as well as plants that will compliment them.

The purpose of this blog is to share information about torch gingers in tropical landscaping. If you have any particular favorites please leave a comment.

Happy Gardening!! Ann

Our New Look Website

Welcome to our new website! We've included a blog so that we can keep you up to date on new and interesting plants that we are adding to our online plant store as well giving you more in depth information about landscaping with tropical plants.
In the future we plan to add in depth plant profiles and tropical landscape design articles on a monthly basis so make sure to check back from time to time or even better subscribe to our blog.

Happy Gardening! Ann